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How To Comb Your Hair Without Damaging It

How To Comb Your Hair Without Damaging It

Brushing your Hair Properly

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First published: 24. Jan.2025

Overview

Here are some simple tips on how to brush your hair and not damage it, with interesting information about hair, its inner structure, features, and curious facts about the differences between the hair of different ethnic groups.

In this Article (Index)

smiling woman brushing her hair
Brush your Hair Easily.

Hair

Hair is a natural cylindrical fiber that is made up of a protein called keratin. Keratin is versatile and nature has used it to make scales, feathers, nails, claws, hooves, horns, and the outer skin layer of all vertebrates, from our skin to the scales of fish, and reptiles, to the soft skin of amphibians like frogs.

Human hair also contains around 14% of an amino acid called cysteine, which provides sulfur that forms bonds in the keratin that give it strength and rigidity. It also makes the keratin insoluble and resistant to solvents.

Human hairs have an elliptical cross-section that ranges from 30 to 140 μm (1 μm is a micron, one millionth of a meter) or 0.00118 to 0.00551 inches. They are classified as fine (less than 50 μm), medium (51-65 μm), and thick (over 66 μm). The diameter can vary along each strand of hair. (3)

cross section of a human hair
Cross section of a hair. Austin Whittall

The hair fiber has three major parts. The central region is called the medulla and is 5 to 15 μm in diameter. It is wrapped by the cortex which makes up the bulk of the hair strand and is composed of tightly packed keratin microfibrils. The external surface of the hair strand is the cuticle, 5 μm thick. Its purpose is to protect the core against physical and chemical stress.

The cuticle is composed of flat sheet-like cells called scales 0.5 μm thick. The cuticle is about ten scales thick. The scales are coated with a thin layer of lipids (fat) and bound to each other with a strong "cement" based on proteins. The lipids and the cement form a structure called the cell membrane complex or CMC.

Hair grows in three phases: the first, known as anagen, lasts 3 to 5 years and is the growth period; roughly 85-90% of the hairs on your scalp are in this phase. The second phase is called catagen and only lasts for 2 or 3 weeks; it affects 1 to 3% of your hair. Growth stops, the hair follicle shrinks, and the hair separates from the base of the follicle and remains in place for the third phase, telogen, a resting period that lasts 2 to 3 months and affects 9% of the scalpĀ“s hair.
During telogen, the hairs stand still, before being shed in the hair-shedding phase called exogen.

Shedding 100 hair strands per day from the head is considered normal.

Ethnicity and Hair

Hair growth, density, and thickness differ between ethnic groups. A study analyzed the characteristics of hair from 2,249 young healthy subjects aged 18 to 35, from 24 different ethnic origins from each continent. Below are their findings: (6)

  • Caucasian scalps have around 30% more hair than African or Asian scalps (233 hairs/cm2 in French vs. 153 hairs/cm2 in a South Africans).
  • Hair density is lower in men compared to women, but only in the vertex area.
  • Asian hair grows fastest, almost 5 cm more in one year than African hair: 0.426 mm per day in a Korean vs. 0.272 mm per day in a South African.
  • Hair diameter ranged from 89 μm in Chinese to 69 μm in French, showing the known trend of larger hair strands in Asians.
  • Lighter-toned hair is thinner and has a shorter telogen phase than darker hair.
  • Curly hair has lower density and lower growth rate.

African Hair

For cultural reasons, African hair is subjected to different grooming and styling practices like braiding, hair extension, and dyeing. A 2021 study (8) investigated the effects of these treatments on hair health and found that superficial and internal hair damage was linked to braiding frequency. Those who braided most often subjected their hair to higher traction stress and had thinner and significantly weaker hair, and higher cuticle damage. The risk for alopecia (hair loss) was higher. Frequent combing, was also a cause of cuticle damage, even more severe than that caused by frequent braiding.

African hair has less moisture even though its composition is similar to that of other ethnic groups. (2)

Asian Hair

Asian hair has a circular section with more cuticle layers and is more compact compared with Caucasian hair. (2)

Since Asian hair has a large hair diameter, conditioners for this type of hair have a higher concentration of natural or silicone oils compared to regular ones used for Caucasian hair (3-5% vs 0.5%). (7)

Things that damage your hair

Chemical attack from hair cosmetics

The "weakest link" theory of hair breakage assumes that the hair strand will fail or break at the point where its cross section is smallest. Shampoo, rinse-off conditioner, and surfactant wash, all contain surfactants to remove grit, these emulsify the oily mix of dirt and scalp sebum allowing it to be washed away with water. However, the surfactant's harshness also degrades the cuticle's scales.

Heat, Dye, and Sunlight Damage

A 2020 study (2) investigated factors that caused damage and changes in the hair. It focused on microscopic changes like dents, thinning, bulges, and color variations and found the following:

  • Changes to the hair were "significantly more likely in those women who had used hairstyle tools in the past 6 months compared with those who did not use them."
  • Sun exposure causes microscopic changes to the hair by degrading the protein in the hair and forming free radicals (reactive oxygen species or ROS)
  • Hair coloring and dye products damages the hair and lowers its water content. Dye frequency also increases damage.
  • Though the use of hair oil and conditioners could prevent hair breakage and lead to less damage the authors "did not find any association between the use of these products and microscopic changes."

Exposure to heat, through the use of hair tongs or hair dryers damages the α-keratin protein, denaturing it, and altering the structure of the hair cuticle. Alternate wet and dry cycles crack the cuticle. The effect depends on the genetics of each individual (see ethnicity and hair further up). Protein damage reduces water uptake altering the hair's appearance.

Take-home point

Heat, sunlight, and dyeing hair damage it.

Hair dryer, yes or no?

A study (5) found that even though a hair dryer usually causes more surface damage than natural drying, "using a hair dryer at a distance of 15 cm with continuous motion causes less damage than drying hair naturally." The reason for this is that "natural" drying keeps the hair wet for longer, and this causes damage to the Cell membrane complex (CMC) that binds the cuticle scales together.

Drying under any temperature, even "natural" drying causes a lightening in its color (bleaching) after just 10 sessions of shampooing and drying. The authors suggest that "Hair shampoo surfactants and daily hair drying (including heat drying) causes damage to the ultrastructure of the hair, as well as color changes."

Combing Stress and Loads

A study in 2018 (1) reported that the average combing frequency was 1.7 times per day, with values that ranged from 0 to 5. The average number of strokes was 16, and the combing speed ranged from 22 to 35 cm/sec. (8.7 to 13.8 inches/sec).

fair woman brushing her hair
Hair Care.

The study found that during combing, individual fibers aren't subjected to any significant strain or repetitive loads. People use a low number of comb strokes which helps them grow their hair long and in good condition.

The study also tested different types of hair and found that the only hair fibers that were likely to experience significant loads while being brushed were "wet combed persulphate bleached hair," the probability for hair reaching loads of 1.7 g over 30 comb sets was: 0.1 wet combing Asian hair, 0.2 for dry combing, 0.23-0.3 dry combing bleached hair, 0.47 for wet combing Caucasian hair, and 1 for wet combed bleached hair gave a probability of one. Adding a conditioner to bleached hair reduced the probability to less than 0.1.

Take-home point

Using a conditioner reduces loads on your hair while you comb it. Using fewer strokes helps keep hair in good shape.

How to Brush Your Hair Properly

The process which we describe in the following sections, consists of these steps:

Steps for proper brushing

  1. Use top-quality hair products
  2. Keep your Hair knot-free and untangled
  3. Apply a Serum
  4. Brushing and combing
  5. Hair Ties

Let's go into the details of each of these steps.

Use top-quality hair products

Cheap or low-end products contain harsh ingredients that could harm your hair or reduce its shine, manageability, and softness.

A good shampoo and conditioner will cover your needs. If your hair is dyed or has highlights, or balayage use professional products, not the regular supermarket hair care products.
Follow the instructions on the products' labels and rinse well when you wash your hair.

All You Need to Know About Shampoo and Conditioners

>> Learn all about Shampoo & Conditioner Fact Sheet

Shampoo, Conditioner, silicone and plant-based botanical oils. What are they? What do they do? What are their ingredients?

woman lathering hair with shampoo seen from behind, shoulders upwards
Shampooing.

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Keep your Hair Knot-free and Untangled

Knots increase the strain and stress on the hair strand leading to damage and breakage. Excessive friction also damages the hair (see Combing Stress and Loads further up).

Apply a conditioner while showering and spread it through your hair with your fingers. Don't use a brush to apply it, wet hair breaks easily.

Dry your hair with a towel, softly patting it. Don't wring it with the towel or wrap your hair in one.

Let your hair dry before combing it. Avoid brushing wet hair, but if you must, use a wide-tooth comb and brush gently.

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Apply a Serum

Hair serum is a cosmetic liquid that coats the hair's cuticle and addresses hair concerns like dryness, dullness, and frizz.

Based on their goals, hair serums are supposed to provide some of the following benefits: nourishment for the hair strands and follicles to improve the health of the hair. They also repair and restore damage caused by breakage with ingredients that provide elasticity, shine, and moisture. They strengthen the hair strands to make it look better, softer, and smoother. They contain antioxidants and UV filters to protect the scalp, hair follicles, and hair from pollution, solar damage, and free radicals. Finally, they enhance scalp health soothing irritation, reducing inflammation, itching, and dryness.

Hair serum is applied on wet hair. Find one that is suitable for your type of hair (straight, wavy, or curly).

Applying 1 or 2 drops of serum to your hair will help you when you brush it.

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Brush and Comb Your Hair

Your hair care kit should include brushes and a comb. Each one has a different use.

Comb

Have a wide-toothed comb, the spacing between teeth will reduce the risk of pulling hairs. Combs are ideal for detangling wet hair, if done wet (with care, as wet hair is more fragile) you can avoid static electricity. You can also comb wet hair in the shower -with care!

Be gentle, comb softly, and don't force it through the hair.

Brush

Use a brush made from good-quality materials. Natural bristles are the best. Avoid pointed or sharp bristles; thin and flexible ones are the best.

Wide-spaced, sturdy bristles will let you brush gently and effectively, even if your hair is thick or tangled.

Brushes should also be used with caution as they can pull hair and break the strands. Brushes also provide a nice scalp massage. (4)

What Kind of Brush Should You Use?

Morning grooming requires a detangling brush (on dry hair only). Paddle brushes are ideal for straight or wavy hair. (4)

Brush from the Tip to the Roots

It is easier to brush downwards, from the roots to the tips, but it can pull hairs out of their follicles and also break the strands.

Divide your hair into sections, and start brushing the lower section, brushing a few inches from the tips. Progress upwards using short, slow, smooth strokes. The idea is to detangle it without damaging it. (4)

Dyed hair or hair with highlights is more fragile than normal hair. Brush gently.

woman brushing her fair hair
Brush your Hair Gently.

Combing Frequency

How Often Should You Brush Your Hair? Experts recommend doing it once or twice a day. Don't overdo it. (4)

Brushing Wet Hair

As mentioned, brushing wet hair isn't recommended as the wet hair breaks easily. The best way to brush wet hair is to let it air-dry for a while (10 min.), and absorb humidity by patting with a dry towel (don't rub or wring the hair).
Apply a hair-detangling product before brushing, and then brush very gently. (4)

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Hair Ties

Using any type of hair tie can cause damage to your hair. They compress the hair fibers and can cause breakage. Friction is another risk factor; as the tie rubs against your hair it causes friction and depending on the material of the tie, it can catch the hair strands, pull them, or break the cuticle.

Low-friction fabric-covered ties are the best, with soft materials like satin or silk, friction is reduced. They are gentler on your hair, which can breathe and not dry out as much as with elastic ties.

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References and Further Reading

(1) New, S., Daniels, G. and Gummer, C.L., (2018). Measuring the frequency of consumer hair combing and magnitude of combing forces on individual hairs in a tress and the implications for product evaluation and claims substantiation. Int J Cosmet Sci, 40: 461-466. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12485

(2) Malkani RH, Shirolikar SM, Karmakar S, Setia MS., (2020). Hair Styling Procedures and Hair Morphology: A Clinico-Microscopic Comparison Study. Indian Dermatol Online J. 2020 Jul 13;11(4):551-558. doi: 10.4103/idoj.IDOJ_452_19. PMID: 32832441; PMCID: PMC7413455

(3) Kaushik V, Chogale R, Mhaskar S., (2020). Alternative Protocol for Hair Damage Assessment and Comparison of Hair Care Treatments. Int J Trichology. 2020 Jan-Feb;12(1):7-15. doi: 10.4103/ijt.ijt_3_20. Epub 2020 Apr 9. PMID: 32549694; PMCID: PMC7276157

(4) Garnier. HoShould you Comb or Brush your Hair?. Accessed: Jan 22, 2025

(5) Lee Y, Kim YD, Hyun HJ, Pi LQ, Jin X, Lee WS., (2020). Hair shaft damage from heat and drying time of hair dryer. Ann Dermatol. 2011 Nov;23(4):455-62. doi: 10.5021/ad.2011.23.4.455. Epub 2011 Nov 3. PMID: 22148012; PMCID: PMC3229938

(6) Genevieve Loussouarn, Isabelle Lozano, Segolene Panhard, Catherine Collaudin, Charles El Rawadi, Gilles Genain, (2016). Diversity in human hair growth, diameter, colour and shape. An in vivo study on young adults from 24 different ethnic groups observed in the five continents. European Journal of Dermatology. 2016;26(2):144-154. doi:10.1684/ejd.2015.2726

(7) D'Souza P, Rathi SK., (2015). Shampoo and Conditioners: What a Dermatologist Should Know?. Indian J Dermatol. 2015 May-Jun;60(3):248-54. doi: 10.4103/0019-5154.156355. PMID: 26120149; PMCID: PMC4458934

(8) Molamodi, K., Fajuyigbe, D., Sewraj, P., Gichuri, J., Sijako, B., Galliano, A. and Laurent, A., (2021). Quantifying the impact of braiding and combing on the integrity of natural African hair.Int J Cosmet Sci, 43: 321-331. https://doi.org/10.1111/ics.12699

About this Article

How To Comb Your Hair Without Damaging It, A. Whittall

©2025 Fit-and-Well.com. First Published: 24.Jan.2025. Update scheduled for 24.Jan.2028. https://www.fit-and-well.com/wellness/how-to-comb-your-hair-without-damaging-it.html

Tags: hair, brushing, comb, conditioner, cosmetics, shampoo

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